Big Sur, CA, between Monterey/Carmel and San Simeon/Hearst Castle

What is scenic, wild, historic, contains some of the state’s finest campgrounds, restaurants and resorts and is just 150 miles south of San Francisco? It’s Big Sur, that relatively undiscovered paradise of rocky coast, idyllic coves, deep redwood forests and legends that run deep, spread along Highway One!

Historic Bixby Bridge on Hwy 1 is a "show stopper"!

View from Santa Lucia coastal mountains, looking down from just east of Kirk Creek Campground.  This road will take you over the mountains to Mission San Antonio; very scenic but not for faint of heart!

McWay Cove and McWay Falls to upper left; part of Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park

Bur Sur Coast, looking south towards San Simeon, taken from Hwy 1 overlook



Rugged Santa Lucia coastal mountains, taken on drive from Big Sur, headed east to Mission San Antonio, about 25 miles inland, due east of Big Sur coast


Lying just south of Monterey and Carmel, the Spanish called it “El Sur Grande”, the Big South, for the huge swath of rugged, unexplored and treacherous California coastline. Today, the 90 miles of Big Sur reaches from Monterey almost to San Simeon, home to Hearst Castle.

Though Mexico awarded several land grants in the early 1800s, none were settled and it would not be until about 100 years ago that permanent settlers arrived in the area. Soon, a lively logging economy began to thrive, with timber shipped up the coast to San Francisco.

Highway One was not completed until 1937, after 18 arduous years building this rugged and stunningly scenic highway. The completion of the road has led to a thriving tourist economy with marvelous resorts and restaurants and some of the state’s grandest state parks. If you are a camper, this is your place (and, on the coast, you can camp year-round)! We are fans of state and federal campgrounds, and these are gems, running from north to south along the highway.

Andrew Molera State Park, just 20 miles south of Carmel offers 24 walk-in sites (first come, first-served), where you park and hike about 1/3 mile to camp sites that will hold up to four folks. With 4,800 acres, the park offers a huge variety of exploring options, from beaches to the Big Sur River to the rugged coastal mountains. This is relatively undeveloped acreage; if you are seeking a wilderness experience, this is pretty close!

Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park, 26 miles south of Carmel, offers 169 sites, picnic options and plenty of hiking and swimming opportunities. The park covers over 1000 acres of redwoods, oaks, cottonwoods and conifers and offers glimpses of wildlife including deer, skunks, raccoons and a variety of sea birds. Hiking offers lots of options along both the Pacific Coast and the Big Sur River. The Big Sur Lodge also offers lodging, if you don’t desire to camp. Reservations: www.ReserveAmerica.com.

Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park, 37 miles south of Carmel offers two hike-in campsites, which can be reserved through www.ReserveAmerica.com. Hiking options are abundant, with options from the Big Sur Coastline up into the rugged coastal peaks. The Overlook Trail takes one on a stunning hike along the coastline, leading to the McWay waterfall, which drops almost 100 feet into the McWay Bay. It’s worth the hike for one of the more spectacular spots on the entire coast!

Limekiln State Park, 56 miles south of Carmel, is one of our favorites. Carved into the Big Sur coast, if offers 716 acres and 33 developed camp sites, many with stunning Pacific views. Mighty redwoods make their way down to the water and the park features historic remains of limekilns, which produced copious amounts of lime for construction some 100 years ago. Reserve through www.ReserveAmerica.com.

Kirk Creek Campground is a bit further south, a gem perched on a bluff overlooking the coastline. Great views, beach hiking, open year-round on a first come, first-served basis, run by the US Forest Service. For more info, call (805) 434-1996.

Restaurants and dining range from the subtle to the sublime, from inexpensive to $$$$-rated! Featuring California’s number one-rated restaurant (by Zagat) and many other fine dining choices, our recent favorite is Big Sur Roadhouse newly opened, getting rave reviews and a bit less expensive than some competitors. Lodging choices abound along the Big Sur coast, from the much-awarded Post Ranch Inn and the Ventana Inn, to Treebones Resort (recognized as a world leader for eco-friendly resorts). A fine resource for both restaurants and lodging is the Big Sur Chamber of Commerce, www.bigsurcalifornia.org; (831) 667.2100.

Highway One is part of the Big Sur story, designated California’s first scenic highway. Spectacular coastal views (with plenty of overlooks), soaring bridges and endless beaches offer a host of wildflowers almost always in bloom, California Sea Otters cavorting in secluded coves and legions of sea birds - if you are lucky, you may see a California Condor soaring overhead on their seven foot wingspans.

Nearby destinations: to the north are Carmel and Monterey, with San Simeon and Hearst Castle to the south along Highway One. Mission San Antonio (one of California’s 21 Spanish missions) and Pinnacles National Park are just east (though, circuitous and wild and scenic drives are required to reach them)! Take your binoculars and enjoy Big Sur; for additional California and western destinations, see http://LittlePlacesIKnow.blogspot.com.

Pinnacles National Park, CA, a story of faults, volcanoes and eons of erosion!

Jutting up from the Gabilan Mountains south of Hollister, CA, are the spectacular remains of an ancient volcano – a volcano located 150 miles south, near Los Angeles! Pinnacles National Park lies on the San Andreas Fault, and is moving a few inches north each year, distancing itself from its mother volcano!

 

From top down, our campsite at Pinnacles Campground among ancient Oak trees; rocky canyon wall off the moderate Rim Trail; Bear Gulch Reservoir just above cave of same name; my spouse Susan at entrance to small cave in route to Bear Gulch Cave; and the stunning Machete Ridge, deeper into the High Peaks area.

It’s a landscape that features the effects of heat, water and wind constantly wearing away at an alien landscape, leaving rugged spines, deep canyons, eerie talus caves, verdant foliage, rushing streams and robust wildlife, from dear, wild turkeys and hogs, to the majestic California Condor with wingspans up to seven feet.

On a recent visit, we found light crowds and a very dry park scene (no campfires allowed in the one large campground, no smoking anywhere), but a lively and stunningly scenic place overall! We entered from CA Hwy 25, through the East Entrance, just 35 miles south of a very pleasant Hollister, CA (with a number of comfy motels, closest to the park). The park also has a West Entrance, from Hwy 146 out of Soledad, but no major visitor conveniences on this side (no road crosses this out-of-the-way national park).

We made our home for three days in the Pinnacles Campground, the parks only, but very nice, campground. Complete with store, visitor center, swimming pool (in season) and showers, if offers a wealth of trailer and tent sites, many with full electric hookups. And, a shuttle bus runs regularly, to take you to the two park main trailheads, about three miles away.

You cannot really get the flavor of Pinnacles without some hiking, so bring comfortable walking shoes and a water bottle. From the Bear Gulch Trailhead, a moderately strenuous one-mile hike takes you to the spooky Bear Gulch Cave (bring headlamps or flashlights) and Bear Gulch Reservoir; one can return on the Rim Trail for a change of scenery.  From this trailhead or from the Old Pinnacles Trailhead, one can venture further into the High Peaks area, for ventures to Balconies Cave and views of Machete Ridge and the Balconies Cliffs. This oddly sculpted landscape will leave you struggling for words to describe it!

This was our first trip; it made us hungry to return in the late spring and explore more of this stunning California wilderness. For more info on Pinnacles National Park, go to: www.nps.gov/pinn. And, plan a side trip to Mission San Antonio and to Big Sur (just south and west), while in this part of wild California! For other inspirational destinations in CA, see my blog http://LittlePlacesIKnow.blogspot.com!