"Do you know the way to San Jose?", downtown San Jose, via ACE commuter rail!

San Jose's old Post Office is now part of the San Jose Museum of Art

Mom takes photo of young explorers in "the Tech" in San Jose.

Kids scramble from approaching Mars Rover in "the Tech" exhibit.

The San Francisco 49ers new Levi's Stadium is just blocks from the Santa Clara ACE Station.

Special ACE rail car is equipped to hold half passengers, and half bicycles.

ACE riders load bikes on ACE Train in Livermore.

ACE locomotive idles at Stockton's Robert Cabral ACE/Amtrak Station just before dusk.

“Do you know the way to San Jose? I’ve been away for so long.  I may go wrong and lose my way,” went the popular 1968 song by Dionne Warwick.  It sold over a million copies and won Warwick her first Grammy.

My pals and I had not been to downtown San Jose for almost 25 years, but had heard how revived and visitor-friendly the town had become.  And, as a center of the Silicon Valley and high-tech, San Jose justified our trip on the ACE (Altamont Corridor Express) Train from Stockton.  Our plan was take the ACE train, all the way to San Jose to explore and see what had changed.  It’s a scenic, memorable and relaxing way to cover the 90-some miles! And, true to what we had heard, downtown San Jose is full of interesting, high-tech and visitor-friendly attractions.

With the ACE train, the latest morning train departs Stockton’s Robert Cabral Amtrak/ACE station at 7:05 AM, with stops in Manteca, Tracy, Livermore, Pleasanton, Fremont, Santa Clara and into downtown San Jose's historic Southern Pacific Diridon Station a little after 9 AM.

The two hour train ride traverses a number of old downtown areas, climbs over the Altamont Pass and through beautiful Niles Canyon and the southern border of the San Francisco Bay.  Stunning scenery presents itself at many a stretch, just out of sight of autos - adults and kids will delight in the train ride portion of the adventure!

In the final two miles of the train ride, one passes the new 49ers Levi's Stadium in Santa Clara, a new stadium being built for the San Jose Quakes (professional soccer) and, two blocks from the Diridon station, the SAP Arena, home of the San Jose Sharks hockey team. For 49ers games, ACE runs a Sunday train from Stockton to Santa Clara.

The earliest return on ACE is 3:35 PM – it is a commuter rail line, after all.  There are also three later departures in the afternoon. The ACE train has virtually all new rolling stock, immaculate rail cars, including one equipped to hold about 15 bicycles. So a tour of San Jose with your bike is another option. 

A free DASH shuttle bus takes you to many intriguing downtown San Jose stops, so no money is required to take the bus. Along the route are the Martin Luther King Library, San Jose State University, the Tech Museum of Innovation, the San Jose Museum of Art and a number of interesting historical buildings, hotels and unique restaurants such as Original Joe's.

Our primary destination was the Tech Museum of Innovation, San Jose’s world-class museum dedicated to innovative and creative spirits that inspired Silicon Valley.  Special exhibits at “The Tech” include the Tech Studio, Social Robots, the Earthquake Platform (we adults and a passel of kids were awestruck by the simulation of the 1989 San Francisco earthquake and other more recent temblors), Moon-landing simulator, Body Metrics, the Tech Virtual Gallery, Health and Biotech Gallery, the Silicon Valley Innovation Gallery and much more. 

This is a center for youngsters and teens; it was impressive to see Stanford University present with a Genome exhibit, enthralling a dozen young future scientists!  The entire three floors of The Tech are kid-friendly, designed to be hands-on; all four of our adult tourists were energized to plan a future visit with grandkids of all ages. The Hackworth IMAX dome theater (inside The Tech) is the largest in the west; an additional fee is required to see movies on the massive circular screen.

Shopping highlights of San Jose’s downtown include the Historic District, with a number of unique boutiques and eclectic shops, interesting shops at both the museums, and a variety of stores at the San Jose Market Center on Coleman Avenue. We picked up a copy of Silicon Valley Metro, a free weekly paper at the train station; it’s loaded with activities, night spots, restaurant recommendations and “what to see and do”; they also have a slick web site full of similar info:  www.metroactive.com.

Just two blocks from the Tech Museum of Innovation (“The Tech”), we found the ornate and historic Cathedral Basilica of St. Joseph at the corner San Fernando and Market. The San Jose Museum of Art, with Café and museum store, (originally the 1892 San Jose Post Office), is just across the street.
DASH offers free shuttle to various points around downtown, including Martin Luther King Library, San Jose State University, San Jose Convention Center and the aforementioned shopping areas. 

All in all, it’s a pretty, historic and tourist-friendly destination, enhanced by the ease of getting there on the ACE train!  Though, the ACE Train service, except for San Francisco 49er’s games, is not available on weekends.

For those seeking further rail exploration, the San Jose Diridon Station is served by CalTrain, the rail line that runs north to San Francisco (seven days a week), and one can also take Amtrak from San Francisco to Stockton, and vice versa.  All three rail lines are “bike friendly”, as well. Hence, a several day rail excursion can make for even more fun!

So, purchase your ACE ticket, “find your way to San Jose”, and do some innovative exploring!

What to take: Binoculars, camera and snacks for the trip and good walking shoes.

For more information: The Tech Museum of Innovation, 201 South Market St., San Jose 95113, phone 408–294–8324, the tech.org; opens daily at 10 AM, groups save up to 25%, IMAX films and special exhibits require a separate fee. Downtown San Jose Association, 28 North First Street #1000, San Jose, Ca 95113; (408) 279-1775; www.sjdowntown.com.  ACE Train: Robert Cabral Station, 949 E. Channel Street, Stockton, CA 95202; www.acerail.com; fares, adults, round-trip, $24.50, kids 6 to 12 and seniors 65 and over, half price or $12.25 each.  CalTrain rail service from San Jose to San Francisco, www.caltrain.com.

For additional travel destination inspiration, see my blog: http://blogs.eSanJoaquin.com/Valley travel; to contact me, tviall@msn.com. 
Happy travels in the West!

Hetch Hetchy Valley and Reservoir; undiscovered but stunning part of Yosemite!

Hetch Hetchy Valley and Reservoir, looking east from trail on the north shore trail of the reservoir.

The trail along the north shore of Hetch Hetchy Reservoir, looking back towards the dam.

The Hetch Hetchy Dam, started in 1919, completed in 1923 and further heightened in 1938, it now floods the valley and creates a reservoir that is 8 miles long, and up to 300 feet deep.

Hetch Hetchy Watershed at top, the much-more visited Yosemite Valley (to the south) at bottom of map.

The Hetch Hetchy Valley and free-flowing Tuolumne River, in the early 1900s, before the dam was approved.

A portion of the ferocious Rim Fire of a year ago, that burned vast swathes of forest in and around Yosemite Park; this view looking to the northeast, into the Tuolumne River drainage, with Hetch Hetchy in distance.

The old post office in Chinese Camp, part of a three block Gold Rush ghost town, right on Hwy. 120, on the way to Hetch Hetchy and Yosemite Valleys.

Hetch Hetchy Reservoir and the Tuolumne Valley are close cousins to the mighty Yosemite Valley, virtually undiscovered and almost equally stunning.  Hetch Hetchy is just 115 miles and a scenic day-tour from Stockton!

The Hetch Hetchy Valley was the scene of one of the most epic environmental battles 100 years ago, as John Muir, the Sierra Club and other environmental groups fought to keep this valley pristine and free of development.

Muir's exploration of both Hetch Hetchy and Yosemite, and writings in the influential Century Magazine, helped to get Yosemite National Park established in 1890. However, the much less-visited Hetch Hetchy Valley portion of the park remained in peril.

San Francisco had eyed the valley for extending its water supply since the 1890s and applied several times to the federal government for water rights but was denied. The huge San Francisco earthquake in 1906, when much of the city burned, underlined the city's need for more water and turned the political winds in the city’s favor.

In 1908, US Secretary of interior Garfield granted the city the rights to development of the Tuolumne River, provoking a multi-year environmental battle led by the Sierra Club and John Muir. Muir observed, "Dam Hetch Hetchy! As well damn for water tanks the peoples’ cathedrals and churches for no holier temple has ever been consecrated by the heart of man".

In 1913, writing to Robert Johnson of Century Magazine, he pressed his argument, noting "The Hetch Hetchy Valley is a wonderfully exact counterpart of the great Yosemite, not only in its sublime cliffs and waterfalls and it's peaceful river, but in the gardens, groves, meadows and campgrounds on its flowery park-like floor". He would continue to fight the city of San Francisco to his death in 1914.

Muir's writings are archived at the University of Pacific and can be read online at go.pacific.edu/specialcollections.

In 1913, the US Congress passed and President Wilson signed the Raker Act, which permitted the flooding of the valley. Muir died the following year, bitter to have lost the fight. Construction on the O’Shaughnessy Dam would begin in 1919 and end in 1923; it was further heightened in 1938 and now supplies water to almost 2.5 million San Franciscans.

What remains is a still stunning valley and pristine 8-mile long reservoir, nearly the equal of Yosemite Valley, and visitors have this part of the park almost unto themselves and can still appreciate the treasure that so stoked John Muir’s soul.

One can drive to the parking lot right beside the O'Shaughnessy Dam. Views from the dam are memorable, but hike a half-mile or several miles along the north side of the reservoir for the most indelible views.  Hetch Hetchy’s relatively low elevation makes for one of the central Sierra’s longest hiking seasons, but, check weather forecasts for winter trips.

Looking up the valley, on the right one sees the massive Kolana Rock, on the left, the Hetch Hetchy Dome. The view extends east, up the reservoir and through the Tuolumne Valley; serious hikers can continue even further east into the Tuolumne Meadows area. Hikers will find varied views both remarkable, and reminiscent of nearby Yosemite Valley.

Crossing the dam, our trail took us past the base of Tueeulala Falls, dry for lack of snowmelt, and to the base of Wapama Falls, surging mightily with early snow melt. It's about a 2 mile hike from the dam to Wapama Falls on an easy, well-maintained trail (note to self: return in April or May to admire these falls when more water is flowing!).

The discussion over water supplied to San Francisco, and ongoing battle over restoration of the valley by removing the dam, continues – but entering our fourth year of California drought, probably won't gain traction in the near-term. Until then, pack your binoculars and camera and set forth on a serious day tour, or longer!  If you are planning a longer trip to Yosemite in general, include a day to tour Hetch Hetchy!

One of the side benefits of such a trip is you pass through a couple of historic towns worth a stop. Chinese Camp is a true Gold Rush ghost town, right on Highway 120. Take the walk down the three block stretch of Main Street, with an old abandoned hotel, post office, merchant’s buildings, rooming house and homes slowly moldering away. Just up the hill on Main is the St. Francis Xavier Mission Church/cemetery, established in 1854.  You will find family plots and pioneer tombstones dating to the 1860s.

Groveland is closer to Hetch Hetchy, also on Hwy. 120, a quaint Gold Rush town catering to tourists with the historic Groveland Hotel, jail dating to 1854 and Groveland Pizza, on north edge of town, a fine family food stop.

Camp Mather and Mather Family Camp, just nine miles from Hetch Hetchy, offers a store, restaurant and variety of accommodations, from cabins to lodge, in a bucolic wooded setting. Vast stands of scorched forest along Evergreen Road, both before and after Camp Mather, offer mute testimony to the ferocious Rim Fire of a year ago.

How to get there: From Stockton, 115 miles, 2.75 hours. Take Highway 4 east to Copperopolis, turn right on O'Byrnes Ferry Road, take a left on highway 120/108 and follow Highway 120 past Chinese camp and Groveland. Then, left on Evergreen Road to the reservoir.  Leave early, particularly if you want time to see Chinese Camp and Groveland; and this portion of Yosemite closes at 5 PM.

What to take: Pack cold weather gear, binoculars, camera and snacks for the trip. Fishing rods and your CA fishing license!
For more information: Yosemite National Park, go to www.nps.gov/yose; call 209/372-0200 (then dial 3, then 5) or by mail: Public Information Office, PO Box 577, Yosemite, CA 95389 (the park does charge a day-use fee).
For additional travel destination inspiration, see my blog: http://blogs.eSanJoaquin.com/Valley travel; to contact me, tviall@msn.com.
Happy travels in the West!

Sierra snows; skiing, boarding, XC, snowshoeing or sledding, just two hours from Stockton or Modesto!

View from Bear Valley's Day Lodge, looking northwest towards the Mokelumne River Valley.

A hungry lunch crowd enjoys the colorful Day Lodge at Bear Valley Resort.

Members of the 'Ski Bears' enjoy a lesson, with Bear Valley's Day Lodge in distance.

New skier takes the gentle carpet lift in front of the Dodge Ridge Family Lodge.

Members of the Dodge Ridge 'Kid's Club' enjoy a lesson on a sunny day.

A family of five enjoys both the snow and the scenery in the Boulder Creek Canyon area of Dodge Ridge Ski Area.

For Christmas, perhaps you received new skis or a snowboard, snowshoes or cross-country skis and want to try them out. Or, now that the holidays are past, you finally have time to get up to the Sierra snow country.

From Stockton, the two "closest snows to home" are Dodge Ridge Ski Resort 30 miles east of Sonora on Highway 108, and Bear Valley Ski Resort, 50 miles east of Angel’s Camp on Highway 4.

From my home in North Stockton, Dodge Ridge is 98 miles, Bear Valley, 106 miles – considerably closer than other options in the Sierra and Lake Tahoe areas Each resort is family-friendly, generally less expensive than resorts in the Tahoe area, offer good conditions at this point in early January – with each only about two hours from Stockton or Modesto.

Bear Valley Ski Resort is just off Hwy. 4, sports a top elevation of 8,495’, a mid-way day-lodge at 7,750’ and bottom elevation (the Grizzly Chair) of 6.595’.  Bear offers 1680 acres when fully open; with 8 chairlifts (one a high-speed quad) and two carpet lifts, with snow-making on some of its upper slopes.  Currently Bear has a 34+ inch base, is running six chairs and is about 47% open with packed powder conditions.
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For scenic runs, try several off of Bear Top, where views can stretch south to Dodge Ridge and down into the Mokelumne River Valley.  Additionally, the Bear Valley Cross-country Center at Bear Valley Village (el. 7,100’) offers XC skiing and snowshoeing; they also rent platters, tubes for snow play.

Bear Valley spokesperson Rosie Sundell notes that “excitement is in the air, with recent new ownership by Skyline Investments.  Despite just acquiring the ski area, Skyline has invested in additional snow making equipment and has moved quickly to offer live music each weekend (Tracy native Megan Slankard plays on the Martin Luther King weekend; see Bear’s web site for a listing of coming events)”.

Bear Valley offers a variety of food and drink choices at its mid-way Day Lodge, including delicious outdoor BBQ when we visited last week.  Several dining options are offered nearby.  In Bear Valley Village, the Lodge offers light fare in the Grizzly Lounge and steaks and seafood in the classy Creekside Dining Room and has recently updated the Lodge’s Trattoria, with pizza, pasta and libations, for taking a large family with big appetites! 

A bit closer to the Valley, one can find numerous dining options in Arnold, and even more good eats in Murphy’s, including the highly rated Alchemy Restaurant and the historic Murphy’s Hotel.  Arnold and Murphys both offer a variety of hotels and motels for overnighting.

Dodge Ridge Ski Resort is just off Hwy 108 above Pinecrest Lake, with 8 chairlifts (one quad), one T-bar, two carpet lifts and a rope tow, a top elevation of 8,200’, base of 6,600’; 67 runs and 862 acres when fully open.  Earlier this week, the area reports sunshine, packed powder, plenty of groomed runs and 75% of their terrain open, including chairs 7 and 8.

Spokesperson Sean Waterman notes the area was “delighted to have opened on December 17, and experienced a fun and busy holiday season”.  He notes that the mountain is gearing up for several events, and the fast-approaching Martin Luther King’s birthday weekend. “Bring the family, we look forward to seeing you”, he adds!

Dodge Ridge prides itself on being a family-focused area, further enhanced when it opened its new Family Lodge a few years ago.  The area offers a variety of gentle slopes for beginning skiers and snowboarders and challenging “double black diamond runs” off Chair 8 in the Boulder Creek Canyon area. Check the stunning scenery serviced by Chair 8, with both easy and energizing runs and a view north into the Sierra that is spectacular.  Graceland is a favorite run, scenic, rated “blue” (more difficult) and a family favorite for both schussing and photos!

A number of cross-country ski trails emanate from the Dodge Ridge base area and access road. 
The resort is not permitted for sledding or tubing, but you can visit the Family Lodge, have lunch or hot chocolate and consider skiing, snow-boarding or a fun lesson.  The area around Pinecrest Lake (just below Dodge Ridge) offers several places where you can use those sleds or inner tubes, as does Leland Snow Play area, seven miles further east, just off Highway 108!

Dodge Ridge offers a number of dining options at the ski area, including the Creekside Lodge and Café, with a large variety of food and drink. On weekends and holidays, the North Fork Bistro in the Family Lodge is a great place for families to dine, and slopeside dining is also offered at Local’s Café, with tasty BBQ at the bottom of Chair 7.

Other reliable dining options are found nearby: The Pie Pizza in Sugar Pine, Mia’s Italian in Cold Springs or The Steam Donkey (steaks, seafood, pastas) in Pinecrest. Overnight lodging is found at Pinecrest Lake Lodge or Pinecrest Chalet in Pinecrest, the Christmas Tree Inn in Mi Wuk Village or the Long Barn Lodge in Long Barn, all along Hwy 108. 

If you are seeking snow play, with sleds, tubes or platters, you can find areas on the approach to both ski areas; however snow levels can vary by the day.

How to get there: The start of the route from Stockton is the same for both destinations; take Highway 4 east to Copperopolis.  There, to reach Dodge Ridge, go right/south on O Bryrne’s Ferry Road, then left/east on Highway 108 to the ski area. For Bear Valley, stay on Hwy. 4 all the way to the ski area.

What to take: Pack cold weather gear, binoculars, camera, snacks for the trip and chains are always advised for winter weather.

What’s nearby: Calaveras Big Trees State Park along Hwy. 4; Columbia State Historic Park just off Hwy. 49 (a Gold Rush town preserved) and Jamestown’s Railtown 1897 (the Sierra Railroad) just off Hwy. 108.

For more information: Bear Valley Ski Resort, www.bearvalley.com, 209.753.2301; Dodge Ridge Ski Resort, www.dodgeridge.com, 209.965.3474.

For additional travel destination inspiration, see my blog: http://blogs.eSanJoaquin.com/Valley travel; to contact me, tviall@msn.com.

Think snow, and happy winter travels in the West!

California's epic destinations; update your "Bucket List" for 2015!

Point Arena Lighthouse on California's north coast, above the Russian River and Jenner.

The "ghost resort" of Bombay Beach, on east shore of the Salton Sea; a manmade ecological disaster.  The lake was formed in the early 1900s when the Colorado River flooded and roared down old irrigation canals, flooding the Salton Sink; a deep desert valley much like Death Valley.  In the 1970s, two El Nino winters further poured water into the lake, flooding and ruining five resorts around the land-locked lake.  These are the skeletons of former mobile homes on the lake shore.

The Bay Bridge connecting San Francisco and Oakland, as seen from a Hornblower Yacht cruise.  Photo courtesy of Les Fong.

Recreation of Sutter's Mill in Coloma, CA, site of the original California gold strike in 1848 and lead to the Gold Rush in 1849.

Machete Ridge, part of the newest of our 59 national parks, Pinnacles National Park, 30 miles south of Hollister, CA.

Lake Helen, still frozen in July, on road through Lassen National Park. That's Lassen's stark volcanic peak behind the lake.

We live in, arguably, the most spectacular state in America. With all the wonderful destinations at your beck and call and the start of a New Year approaching, I suggest you update your bucket list of California destinations for 2015.  To whet your appetite, here are some of our favorites – most of them in N. California.

Of California’s nine wonderful national parks, several stand out: Pinnacles, due to its close proximity to the valley and stunning topography.  When you journey to places like Pinnacles National Park, explore the surrounding countryside, which will yield other extraordinary places like Mission San Antonio just 30 miles south, and, across the scenic coastal range, the Big Sur coast. 

Have you made it to Lassen National Park, perhaps the most impressive park of volcanic and thermal features in the country? With mud pots, fumaroles and a volcano that exploded huge boulders for miles less than 100 years ago, it has to be on your list!  Further south, Death Valley is stunning for its austerity, particularly impressive in the spring when rains bring wildflowers in abundance. 

California's State Parks can't be overlooked, from Mt. Diablo State Park – you’ve seen it for how many years on our western horizon, but have  you been to the top, camped in it, and admired the 100 mile views?  How about Calaveras Big Trees and it's towering Redwood groves, or Big Basin State Park, northwest of Santa Cruz in the coastal mountains, oldest of the state’s parks and home to towering Coast Redwoods.  Spring is a fine time to visit these parks, with seasonal streams flowing full and wildflowers coming into bloom.

Have you fully explored San Francisco's unique waterfront? The City offers special places for walking, bicycling, public transit or auto.  Start at the Golden Gate Bridge and explore Fort Point, the only Civil War fort on the West Coast. Travel east past Crissy Field, through the Marina District and stop and explore the San Francisco Maritime Museum and the Hyde Street Pier where a dozen historic ships await your arrival, with Fisherman’s Wharf right next door. 

Skip SF’s tourist-stop Pier 39, continue on the Embarcadero to reach the renovated historic Ferry Building and explore a wealth of cute shops and eateries. Here you can take the ferry to Oakland and return, or take a Hornblower scenic cruise on the bay. Continue south, past AT&T ballpark, across the Lefty O’Doul Bridge into Mission Bay; soon you're in the heart of several commercial shipyards where you can see big ships lying in drydock for repairs. Unique ocean and bay vistas present themselves at every mile of such a trip!

Don't ignore the treasures of our San Joaquin/Sacramento Delta.  From backwater river towns such as Rio Vista, Walnut Grove and Locke, fishing for striped bass, salmon and crayfish, to scores of bucolic orchards and vineyards – you’ll find surprises around every turn.

California's Gold Rush history brings tourists from around the world. The site of California's Gold discovery in 1848 is in nearby Coloma; Mother Lode Gold Rush sites march south down the Sierra. Here you'll find wonderful, historic towns just waiting to be explored. Start at Coloma, include Placerville, Fiddletown, Sutter Creek, Columbia, Sonora, and finish your day tour in Jamestown’s Railtown 1897 (the “movie railroad, with locomotives appearing in scores of movies and TV shows).

Dig into your hometown's history, such as Stockton's. Line up a downtown historic walking tour (call the Downtown Stockton Alliance, 464-5246) and explore the Haggin Museum and San Joaquin Historical Society and Museum.  Discover historic nuggets such as Mokelumne City, which rivaled Stockton for both population and shipping supremacy before a huge flood wiped it off the map in 1861. You will find our city and county’s roots are deeply intertwined in the storied history of our state and region.

The magical Sierra offers so much to see and do. From Lake Tahoe, Yosemite, Sequoia and Kings Canyon national parks to big-time ski areas, with fishing, hiking, biking and camping opportunities close at hand.  Camp or hike at such meccas as Pinecrest Lake, Lake Alpine and the Arnold Rim Trail, all within 1.5 hours of town.

When traveling, watch for unique “by accident finds” like the Salton Sea, just south of Death Valley and Joshua Tree National Parks. A former barren valley well below sea level similar to Death Valley, it became an environmental disaster in the early 1900s when the flood-stricken Colorado River overflowed its banks and flooded the dry Salton Sink, forming a landlocked sea now 35 miles long and 25 miles wide.  The Salton Sea is surrounded by five ghost resorts, created in the 1970s after two very wet El Nino winters raised the lake level by 10+ Feet, flooding homes and ruining casinos.

Pick a favorite movie shot in California, even in Stockton, and explore the film locations. Sideways, which won an Academy Award in 2004, affords a fine day tour of the Santa Barbara County area, yielding film locations including the Hitching Post Restaurant, Los Olivos restaurant and a motel in Buellton, where much of the film was shot.  In Stockton, one can claim film locations such as the Lido Hotel, the old downtown bus station, the Hotel Stockton, University of Pacific and more, sites used in movies like Fat City, All the Kings Men and Raiders of the Lost Ark.

Visit California's north coast in the winter or early spring when you can have stunning ocean vistas all to yourself. The coast north of Bodega Bay is amazing, from quaint towns like Jenner and Mendocino, to beautiful oceanfront campgrounds to old Fort Ross dating back to Russian explorers.  Further north, you find Redwoods National Park and continuing California majesty.

So, take the New Year's start to update your own California bucket list – and, get exploring! No list can ever be complete, so polish up your own and share notable destinations that I have missed.  I’ll publish other reader favorites in my upcoming Record Valley Travel blogs!

For additional travel destination inspiration, see my blog: http://blogs.eSanJoaquin.com/Valley travel; to contact me, tviall@msn.com. 
Happy travels in the West!