Tuesday, December 24, 2013

Tuolumne City, CA and Westside Lumber Company; Gold Rush and lumber capital

Tuolumne City preserves remnants of the old Gold Rush town of Summersville, as well as lots of pieces of its longer-lasting hay-day as a logging and lumber center of the Mother Lode. Just six miles from Highway 49 and regional center Sonora, it offers history, and fun at nearby Black Oak Casino, for all ages, from one to 100!
Huge old Steam Donkey awaits bygone lumbering operations next to Tuolumne Fire Station

Eves of the Westside Lumber main mill reflect its closure some 50 years ago

The old Westside Lumber Mill building is in a stage of accelerated disrepair, having closed in the early 60s

Tuolumne City's Memorial Auditorium is in use as a town gathering hall

Massive old lumber equipment dots the fields around the Toulumne City boundaries

Westside Lumber's Engine #2 is preserved in the city's park
Westside Lumber at height of its operations (photo courtesy of Tuolumne Museum)
Early history: Tuolumne began in 1854 when Franklin Summers and family settled nearby and built a cabin and began to grow crops. In 1856 James Blakely arrived and discovered the first quartz outcropping, which would become his “Eureka” quartz and gold mine. Soon the initial town of Summersville had taken shape, with shops, restaurants and service providers.

Other nearby mining towns would spring up (and then disappear), Lone Gulch, two miles south, and Cherokee, two miles north. Later named Cartersville, then Tuolumne City, the placer gold would quickly be mined out, and the area became both an agricultural center and the heart of logging and lumber production for cities in the valley like Modesto and Stockton.

Of several logging operations, the Westside Lumber Company became the main player, building a narrow gauge railroad into varied portions of the Sierra forest, buying and uniteg several other narrow-gauge Sierra railways and developing a major lumber mill with regional innovations. It would continue to expand its railroad, the size and complexity of its mill, and develop Tuolumne City into a lumber town of major proportions in the first sixty years of the 20th century. The mill closed in the early 1960s, after a major fire during a labor dispute - the town has struggled to maintain its viability since.

More recent history: Today, portions of the lumber empire of the Westside Lumber Company take center stage. Several of the company’s buildings remain, though in states of disrepair. Remnants of logging equipment dot the town, from a huge Steam Donkey next to the fire station, to pieces of lumbering equipment in varied fields on the edge of town, the lumber company’s Steam Engine #2 in the city park, to the city’s Municipal Auditorium and the local museum. There is much to explore in a short walk of a few to a dozen blocks. A mile to the north east is the huge, new Black Oak Casino, which is bringing new vitality and visitors to the area, and pumping investment into the town as well.

What to do while there: Walk the historic streets, see the old lumber company remnants, tour the city’s museum (open Saturdays and Sundays, 1-4 PM excluding holidays, at 18663 Carter Street, (209) 928-3516; http://tuolumnemuseum.wordpress.com/), and visit the Tuolumne-band of the Miwuk Indian’s Black Oak Casino (www.BlackOakCasino.com; just a mile from the city center).

How to get there: Tuolumne City is located just off historic Highway 49, six miles southeast of the regional city of Sonora by following Tuolumne Road. It is just two hours from Sacramento and one hour from Stockton and Modesto.

Nearby attractions: Nearby Gold Rush towns like Sonora, Twain Hart, Columbia and Jamestown make for a nifty collection of historic towns in the Mother Lode; many will make their trip several days to take in the rich history and scenic beauty of the Sierra foothills. And the Black Oak Casino is worth a visit, with fun for all.

Lodging, camping, dining options: While Toulumne City offers no hotels or motels, nearby Black Oak Casino offers hotel accommodations, several cafes and a fine restaurant, the Seven Sisters. Sonora, just six miles away, offers a wealth of motels, hotels, bed and breakfasts and a number of good to fine restaurants. Campgrounds can also be found along Highway 49, and up Highway 108 in the Sierras.

For additional weekend getaway ideas in California and the west, go to http//LittlePlacesIKnow.blogspot.com.

Sunday, December 15, 2013

Columbia, CA, gem of the Mother Lode and living history park!

Today, Columbia State Park preserves the old Gold Rush town of Columbia as a museum of living history! Open seven days a week, all year, the park offers activities and history for all ages, from one to 100!


The Wells Farge stage still serves up fun rides to Columbia visitors


Columbia's main street is lined with historic buildings and staffed by friendly guides and docents to recreate life in Gold Rush mining town of the 1850s

Columbia's Fire House was built to prevent future fires that all but destroyed
the town in 1854 and 1857, before most structures were rebuilt in brick with fire-safety in mind

Two young prospectors learn to pan for gold, or, at least, agates!

The Wilson-McConnell House dates to the 1870s, and was used in the film 'High Noon'


On sunny afternoons, lots of families with kids line up to try their hand panning for gold!
History: Columbia took root in March, 1850, when Dr. Thaddeous Hildreth, his brother and others settled here and began prospecting for precious gold. Soon, Hildreth Diggin’s was prospering and in weeks more than a 1,000 miners had turned out into the area. The gold camp was initially named American Camp, and, eventually, Columbia.

The immediate challenge was a steady water supply, used to both wash down gold out of hillsides and to sluice gold out of gravel deposits. Because no steady streams were nearby, by 1851 the locals had formed the Tuolumne County Water Company, to bring water to the town. Since its rates were deemed too high, in 1854 another company was formed, the Columbia and Stanislaus River Water Company, to bring water from 60 miles distant.

By the late 1850s, the two had merged, and use of the water began to change the landscape. It is estimated that the current park parking lot, and area where kids pan for gold was once 25-30 feet higher, before water was used to wash the gold out of the soil and gravel!  All told, approximately $87 million (at 1860's prices) came out of the mines around Columbia!

Within years of its founding, the prosperous town had streets well laid-out, and well over 100 shops, saloons, bakeries, blacksmith shops and restaurants were catering to thousands of miners and townsfolk. Columbia would add churches, the Sons of Temperance, a Masonic Lodge, hotels and a concert hall; the town's population would swell to almost 6,000 towns people. 

Originally, almost all the buildings were made of wood, and a huge fire swept the city in 1854, destroying most of the wooden buildings in the business district. Most of these were rebuilt in 1855, but a second fire in 1857 destroyed more framed buildings and some of the brick ones; the town again rebuilt and further emphasized state-of-the-art fire suppression and fire-fighting.

By the early 1860s, most of the easiest placer gold had been tapped out, and the town began a slow decline. In the following 20-some years, many of the vacated buildings were torn down, and their sites were mined for gold. By the late 19th century and into the 20th, the town was in visible and steady decay - residents had dropped to just 500.

Recent history: An idea born in the Roaring 20s took hold, to establish and renovate Columbia as a State Park, an idea that was finally made reality in 1945! Today, Columbia’s business district is closed to all but foot traffic, and a host of businesses, shops and volunteers bring the town to life, much as it appeared in 1855!

What to do while there: Take a stage coach ride, pan for gold, tour blacksmith and livery shops, get a free tour led by period-dressed docents, grab lunch or an ice cream, and take in life as it was more than 150 years ago! Best of all, admission, parking and guided tours are free, so a day spent here is easy on the wallet!

How to get there: Columbia is located just off historic Highway 49, and is just two hours from Sacramento and 1.5 hours from Stockton.

Nearby: Gold Rush towns like Angels Camp, Amador City, Sutter Creek, Sonora, Tuolumne City and Jamestown make for a nifty collection of historic towns in the Mother Lode; many will make their trip several days to take in the rich history and scenic beauty of the Sierra foothills.

To plan your visit, go to www.visitcolumbiacalifornia.com or call the State Park at (209)-588-9128. For additional weekend getaway ideas in California and the west, go to http//LittlePlacesIKnow.blogspot.com.

Saturday, December 14, 2013

Fiddletown and Plymouth, CA are interesting Gold Rush stops on historic Highway 49

Travelers on historic California Highway 49 will be familiar with Plymouth, CA, but less so with Fiddletown, just eight miles east off 49 following the Fiddletown Road.
The Fiddletown Community Center, with giant fiddle over the entrance, is a backdrop to thousands of photos; last time we were there, the center was hopping with a pancake breakfast for area residents!

The Chew Kee Chinese Apothecary is an example of a rammed-earth building dating to the 1850s

Old Chinese General Store and other Chinese-established businesses line a portion of the old Fiddletown Road that passes through the historic downtown area (easily walkable; only three blocks long)
The C. Schallhorn Blacksmith and Wagon Store has stood along Fiddletown Road for well over 150 years

Stately, and broken, Valley Oaks line a host of scenic backroads throughout the Fiddletown and Shenandoah Valley area, and offer homes for wild turkey, deer, racoons, skunks and more!

Both towns, approximately 45 miles east of Sacramento and 60 miles northeast of Stockton, are rich in Gold Rush history and offer explorers a wealth of interesting historic sites, shops, restaurants and wineries ripe for the touring! And, at 1,000 to 1,500 feet elevation, both are generally well below the Sierra foothills snowline, making sunny winter days the perfect time to tour!
Fiddletown traces its Gold Rush history back further than Plymouth (though Plymouth, located on Highway 49, is larger and better known). Fiddletown was established by prospectors from Missouri in 1849, and quickly grew in the 1850s and 1860s as a center of trade for many mines located nearby.

Miners were known, during the dry season when water for their hydraulic mining ran low, to just “fiddle around”, hence the town’s name. A wealthy resident, Columbus Purinton, embarrassed to say he was from the city of Fiddletown, petitioned the state legislature to rename the town Oleta (after a woman he knew) in 1878, but on his demise 50 years later, it reverted to the Fiddletown name.

During the city’s boom years, it numbered almost two dozen businesses, a handful of taverns, blacksmith shops, bakeries and restaurants. With a post office, church and school, it was a full-fledged city. The town soon grew to over 2,000 residents, with over half Chinese, who worked the mines and established many of the early businesses (some of these still stand, though in a state of disrepair, the local Fiddletown Preservation Society is working to refurbish several structures).

While touring the several remaining blocks of old Fiddletown, be sure to check out the Chew Kee Apothecary (a rare “rammed earth” building dating to the 1850s), the other old Chinese merchant buildings, C. Schallhorn’s Blacksmith and Wagon Store and the Fiddletown Community Center with the giant fiddle over the door! While exploring the historic main drag, don’t miss Brown’s English Toffee, a candy-store extraordinaire (they also sell cute “I’m on Fiddletown Time” t-shirts)!

Nearby Plymouth traces its history to the 1870s, when prospectors stopped there in search of quartz and gold. For gourmet travelers, the new Taste Restaurant in Plymouth is a must-stop, drawing rave reviews from around the region. The city has a cute public park with bandstand, the old Plymouth Hotel and other eateries, all grouped along several old-town blocks. Nice motels also call Plymouth home, and several bed and breakfasts cater to travelers and wine aficionados. For info on restaurants and lodging, go to: http://www.historichwy49.com/amador/plymouth.html.

Both Fiddletown and Plymouth are known as “Gateways to the Shenandoah Valley”, home to over 30 wineries and fast-becoming known as the scenic home to very skillful wine-makers.  While touring a variety of scenic backroads through the Shenandoah, watch for wild turkeys and deer, both found in abundance in this bucolic setting!

Take a weekend to explore both towns and enrich your Gold Rush history! For additional weekend getaway destinations, see http://LittlePlacesIKnow.blogspot.com.

Sunday, December 1, 2013

Big Sur, CA, between Monterey/Carmel and San Simeon/Hearst Castle

What is scenic, wild, historic, contains some of the state’s finest campgrounds, restaurants and resorts and is just 150 miles south of San Francisco? It’s Big Sur, that relatively undiscovered paradise of rocky coast, idyllic coves, deep redwood forests and legends that run deep, spread along Highway One!

Historic Bixby Bridge on Hwy 1 is a "show stopper"!

View from Santa Lucia coastal mountains, looking down from just east of Kirk Creek Campground.  This road will take you over the mountains to Mission San Antonio; very scenic but not for faint of heart!

McWay Cove and McWay Falls to upper left; part of Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park

Bur Sur Coast, looking south towards San Simeon, taken from Hwy 1 overlook


Rugged Santa Lucia coastal mountains, taken on drive from Big Sur, headed east to Mission San Antonio, about 25 miles inland, due east of Big Sur coast

Lying just south of Monterey and Carmel, the Spanish called it “El Sur Grande”, the Big South, for the huge swath of rugged, unexplored and treacherous California coastline. Today, the 90 miles of Big Sur reaches from Monterey almost to San Simeon, home to Hearst Castle.

Though Mexico awarded several land grants in the early 1800s, none were settled and it would not be until about 100 years ago that permanent settlers arrived in the area. Soon, a lively logging economy began to thrive, with timber shipped up the coast to San Francisco.

Highway One was not completed until 1937, after 18 arduous years building this rugged and stunningly scenic highway. The completion of the road has led to a thriving tourist economy with marvelous resorts and restaurants and some of the state’s grandest state parks. If you are a camper, this is your place (and, on the coast, you can camp year-round)! We are fans of state and federal campgrounds, and these are gems, running from north to south along the highway.

Andrew Molera State Park, just 20 miles south of Carmel offers 24 walk-in sites (first come, first-served), where you park and hike about 1/3 mile to camp sites that will hold up to four folks. With 4,800 acres, the park offers a huge variety of exploring options, from beaches to the Big Sur River to the rugged coastal mountains. This is relatively undeveloped acreage; if you are seeking a wilderness experience, this is pretty close!

Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park, 26 miles south of Carmel, offers 169 sites, picnic options and plenty of hiking and swimming opportunities. The park covers over 1000 acres of redwoods, oaks, cottonwoods and conifers and offers glimpses of wildlife including deer, skunks, raccoons and a variety of sea birds. Hiking offers lots of options along both the Pacific Coast and the Big Sur River. The Big Sur Lodge also offers lodging, if you don’t desire to camp. Reservations: www.ReserveAmerica.com.

Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park, 37 miles south of Carmel offers two hike-in campsites, which can be reserved through www.ReserveAmerica.com. Hiking options are abundant, with options from the Big Sur Coastline up into the rugged coastal peaks. The Overlook Trail takes one on a stunning hike along the coastline, leading to the McWay waterfall, which drops almost 100 feet into the McWay Bay. It’s worth the hike for one of the more spectacular spots on the entire coast!

Limekiln State Park, 56 miles south of Carmel, is one of our favorites. Carved into the Big Sur coast, if offers 716 acres and 33 developed camp sites, many with stunning Pacific views. Mighty redwoods make their way down to the water and the park features historic remains of limekilns, which produced copious amounts of lime for construction some 100 years ago. Reserve through www.ReserveAmerica.com.

Kirk Creek Campground is a bit further south, a gem perched on a bluff overlooking the coastline. Great views, beach hiking, open year-round on a first come, first-served basis, run by the US Forest Service. For more info, call (805) 434-1996.

Restaurants and dining range from the subtle to the sublime, from inexpensive to $$$$-rated! Featuring California’s number one-rated restaurant (by Zagat) and many other fine dining choices, our recent favorite is Big Sur Roadhouse newly opened, getting rave reviews and a bit less expensive than some competitors. Lodging choices abound along the Big Sur coast, from the much-awarded Post Ranch Inn and the Ventana Inn, to Treebones Resort (recognized as a world leader for eco-friendly resorts). A fine resource for both restaurants and lodging is the Big Sur Chamber of Commerce, www.bigsurcalifornia.org; (831) 667.2100.

Highway One is part of the Big Sur story, designated California’s first scenic highway. Spectacular coastal views (with plenty of overlooks), soaring bridges and endless beaches offer a host of wildflowers almost always in bloom, California Sea Otters cavorting in secluded coves and legions of sea birds - if you are lucky, you may see a California Condor soaring overhead on their seven foot wingspans.

Nearby destinations: to the north are Carmel and Monterey, with San Simeon and Hearst Castle to the south along Highway One. Mission San Antonio (one of California’s 21 Spanish missions) and Pinnacles National Park are just east (though, circuitous and wild and scenic drives are required to reach them)! Take your binoculars and enjoy Big Sur; for additional California and western destinations, see http://LittlePlacesIKnow.blogspot.com.